Accommodation in Sicily, Sicily accommodation
PALERMO: THE CAPITAL OF SICILY
PALERMO, THE CITY:
The island of Sicily is almost like a country unto itself. Geographically separate from the Italian peninsula, it is hundreds of miles from Rome, Florence, and the other top tourist centers, and has developed its own unique culture over the centuries.
Why go all the way to Sicily, you ask? Well, if you don't, you’ll be missing out on a big chunk of Italy bigger than Tuscany, bigger than Lombardy. In fact, Sicily is the largest of the Italian regions. The island's central position in the Mediterranean Africa is only a day's sail away has made it a strategic base since ancient times, and its rich volcanic soil has attracted colonizers and pillagers alike. No wonder Rome and Carthage used the island as a battleground, and later, the Arabs and Normans. Though Sicily's northeast corner is separated from the mainland only by the sliver of the Straits of Messina, at its southernmost points it stretches farther south than Tunis.
Palermo is a busy modern port and is the political centre of new Sicily meaning from about 1060 onward. The mixture of Arab and Norman influences in Palermo brought about a cultural mix that's apparent both in stunning works of art and in Sicilian traditions and institutions. (The Sicilian Parliament meets in the building that was the Norman palace.) Palermo was severely damaged by earthquakes in the early 20th century and was bombarded in World War II; much of it seems to have never recovered. However, Palermo still boasts some of the region's finest art; its churches alone are worth the visit, and its museums, in a region where museums are rather inadequate, are very good. Although most visitors to Sicily arrive here, you'll find it easier to understand and appreciate Palermo after having seen other parts of the island.
Behind a decaying but elegant facade, Palermo holds unsuspected treasures. Similarly, behind more formal manners and customs, the Sicilians are a warm a welcoming people ready to help you enjoy your visit.
Remember, though, that respect is the key word here.
Palermo is a good starting point for exploring Sicily, especially if you’re planning to take a guided tour. Indeed, tours start from here for each of the major attractions on the island. The other good starting point is Taormina.
ORIENTATION IN PALERMO
Palermo is a port city, organized around its busy waterfront. Via Francesco Crispi is the major thoroughfare running along the waterfront of Porto, the new harbour. To the east of the modern harbour is the original harbour, the Cala, today just a small yacht basin compared with nearby Porto and its piers for large ships. Inland of the Cala is the historical centre of Palermo, with La Kalsa, the ancient Arab quarters, to the east, and the four mandamenti (neighbourhoods) of the centro storico (old town) to the south. The centro storico is neatly divided along Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda, intersecting at Piazza Vigliena, a small square usually referred to as Quattro Canti (four corners), but also called Teatro del Sole (theatre of the sun) because you can see the sun from sunrise to sunset. At the junction of La Kalsa and the centro storico is Piazza Marina, just off the Cala. Parallel to Via Maqueda to the north is Via Roma.
During the 19th century, the city expanded to the west and Via Maqueda was prolonged by Via Ruggero VII, across Piazza Verdi, and Via della Libertà, across Piazza Castelnuovo. To the south is Monreale.
Introducing the neiqhborhoods
The historic part of Palermo is, naturally, where most of the attractions are concentrated; it can be divided into an older section (going back to the Arabian rulers) and a more recent one (built at the turn of the 20th century) but the rest of the city is worth exploring, too.
Centro Storico or Città Antica (Old Town)
The old town starts at the ancient Cala and stretches to the Palazzo dei Normanni, the castle and royal residence of the various powers that reigned over Palermo (from the Arab Emirs to the current Regional Assembly of Sicily). Besides some of Palermo's most important monuments, such as La Martorana and the Cattedrale, this area has many hotels and restaurants, an active nightlife, and lively shopping including the famous Vucciria open air market.
Città Nuova (New Town)
Less picturesque than the old town, but also interesting, this part of town was first developed in the late 19th century. Important sights here include the Teatro Massimo, the Teatro Politeama (its full namne is the Teatro Politeama Garibaldi), and Via Libertà with its Liberty (Italian Art Nouveau) palaces. This is central Palermo's most pleasant area, and hence very popular with locals the Politeama ís the rendezvous place for people of every age. It is the place to head for boutiques, restaurants, and hotels.
La Kalsa
This neighbourhood, centred around the ancient harbour of La Cala, has been the most famous and the most notorious in Palermo. La Kalsa is where the Arab part of Palermo grew up, beginning with the invasion of the Saracens in 831. Its winding streets are picturesque and, at times, have been dangerous: There was a time when tourists wouldn't come here at all. That has changed. La Cala bas been revitalized (although not entirely refurbished) and is a popular spot for cultural events and nightlife. Among the sights in this neighbourhood are the Galleria Regionale della Sicilia (Regional Gallery) and the Piazza Marina, which is the focus of an exuberant nightlife and dining scene.
Monreale
A separate town overlooking the city, Monreale is to Palermo what Fiesole is to Florence, dominating the city from a beautiful hill. The great attraction here, sufficient alone to justify your whole trip to Sicily, is the Duomo with its cloister. Otherwise, it’s a quiet little town with little activity and not much in terms of restaurants or hotels.
Porto (Harbour)
The harbour has been the focus of Palermo for ages, and as the city expanded, it outgrew the original Arab harbour and these new facilities were built. This is the first part of Palermo that you see when you arrive, but don't take it as representative of the city. It was heavily bombarded during the invasion in World War II and most of the buildings are new. It is a sale area and surprisingly quiet the industrial part of the harbour is farther away. It has hotels convenient to the ferries and liners and a few restaurants and shops.
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